Glenwood Springs

You smell Glenwood Springs before you see it — that faint sulfur hint of mineral water drifting through the canyon as you come off I-70. Then the town appears in a tight valley at the confluence of the Colorado and Roaring Fork Rivers, with the massive Glenwood Hot Springs pool steaming right along the highway. I pulled over, walked in, and spent two hours soaking in 104-degree mineral water while looking up at canyon walls and the occasional Amtrak train rolling past on the tracks above. It is the kind of simple, physical pleasure that no amount of marketing can replicate — hot water, cold air, mountains all around you.

Glenwood Springs sits at 5,761 feet, making it one of the lower-elevation destinations in the Colorado mountains and a place where altitude sickness is rarely a concern. The town has been a hot springs destination since the Ute people used the mineral waters long before European settlement, and the resort pools that were built in the 1890s are still operating today. But Glenwood Springs is more than hot springs. Glenwood Canyon — the 12-mile stretch of I-70 east of town — is one of the most impressive highway engineering feats in America, carved through 1,800-foot limestone walls. Hanging Lake, a fragile turquoise pool perched on a travertine shelf at the top of a steep canyon hike, sits within that corridor. And 40 miles up the Roaring Fork Valley, Aspen glitters — making Glenwood Springs the affordable, unpretentious base camp for anyone who wants access to that world without the price tag.

What Are the Best Things to Do in Glenwood Springs?

Glenwood Hot Springs Pool is the headliner and it deserves its reputation. This is the world’s largest outdoor mineral hot springs pool — two city blocks long, holding over a million gallons of naturally heated water. The main pool stays at 90°F (comfortable for laps or lounging), and the therapy pool runs 104°F for true soaking. Adult admission is $28 for a full day, $22 for a twilight session after 4 PM. The pool opens year-round, and winter soaking — steam rising off the water while snow falls on your head — is the iconic Glenwood experience. The facility includes water slides, a splash pad, and a full fitness center, making it genuinely family-friendly.

Iron Mountain Hot Springs is the newer, more upscale alternative, located a half-mile south along the Colorado River. Sixteen smaller soaking pools cascade down the riverbank at temperatures ranging from 99°F to 108°F. The atmosphere is quieter and more refined than the big pool — fewer kids, more contemplative soaking. Admission is $32 for adults with a 90-minute time limit. I preferred Iron Mountain for the river views and the variety of pool temperatures, but both are worth doing if you have the time.

Hanging Lake is a bucket-list Colorado hike, and the permit system (required since 2019) actually improved the experience by capping daily visitors. The 2.4-mile round-trip hike gains 1,000 feet through Glenwood Canyon to a turquoise lake fed by waterfalls cascading over travertine formations. It is genuinely one of the most beautiful spots in Colorado. Permits cost $12 and must be reserved online at visitglenwood.com — they sell out weeks ahead in summer, so book early. The trail is steep and rocky; bring proper footwear and water.

Glenwood Canyon Recreation Path is a 16-mile paved bike and pedestrian trail that runs through the entire canyon alongside the Colorado River and I-70. The engineering is impressive — the trail passes through tunnels, crosses bridges, and threads between the canyon walls and the highway. Bike rentals in town run $30–50/day, and the flat, paved surface makes it accessible to families. The trail connects to rest areas with parking, so you can ride segments rather than the full out-and-back.

Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park sits on top of Iron Mountain, accessed by a gondola ride from town. It combines cave tours (Historic Fairy Caves, $32 for adults) with a small amusement park featuring a mountain coaster, a canyon swing, and a ride that dangles you over a 1,300-foot cliff. The cave tours are genuinely interesting — massive chambers with stalactites, stalagmites, and formations that took millions of years to develop. The thrill rides are secondary but fun, especially the Giant Canyon Swing.

Yampah Spa Vapor Caves offer a different hot springs experience — natural underground steam caves carved into the rock near the Glenwood Hot Springs Pool. The caves maintain temperatures around 110–112°F, and sessions run $17 for unlimited time. It is a genuine geothermal experience, not a built sauna, and the sensation of sitting in a naturally heated cave while breathing mineral-scented steam is unlike anything at a conventional spa.

Where to Eat in Glenwood Springs

Riviera Supper Club is the best restaurant in Glenwood Springs — a retro-styled steakhouse and cocktail bar on Grand Avenue with leather booths, a strong martini program, and excellent steaks. Entrees run $28–50, and the atmosphere feels like a 1950s supper club in the best possible way. Reservations recommended on weekends.

Slope & Hatch serves tacos and craft cocktails in a stylish downtown space. The street-style tacos ($4–5 each) use quality ingredients with creative combinations — smoked brisket, Korean BBQ, grilled fish — and the margaritas are properly made. Four tacos and a drink runs $25–30 per person. The rooftop patio with canyon views is prime.

Polanka is an unexpectedly authentic Czech and Eastern European restaurant on Grand Avenue. The goulash, schnitzel, and dumplings are the real thing, and the Czech beer selection is solid. Entrees run $18–30. It is a genuinely unique dining option that you would not expect in a Colorado mountain town.

Daily Bread Cafe and Bakery handles breakfast with fresh pastries, egg dishes, and coffee for $10–16 per person. The cinnamon rolls are house-made and substantial. It gets crowded on weekend mornings — arrive before 8 AM or wait.

Glenwood Canyon Brewpub is the local brewery right on Grand Avenue, serving solid craft beer and standard pub fare (burgers, wings, sandwiches) for $14–22 per person. The Hanging Lake Honey Ale is the house favorite. It is the default post-soak, post-hike stop.

Where to Stay in Glenwood Springs

Hotel Denver is a beautifully restored 1906 hotel right across from the Amtrak station and a two-minute walk from the hot springs pool. Rooms run $140–250/night with exposed brick, updated bathrooms, and a rooftop bar with canyon views. It is the best blend of character and convenience in town.

Glenwood Hot Springs Lodge sits directly adjacent to the pool and includes unlimited pool access with your stay. Rooms run $180–300/night in summer, and the convenience of walking from your room to the pool in a robe is worth the premium if hot springs are your primary reason for visiting.

Hotel Colorado is the grand historic hotel built in 1893, modeled after Italian villas. Teddy Roosevelt used it as a base during hunting trips. Rooms run $150–275/night, and while the rooms vary in quality (request a renovated room), the lobby and public spaces are magnificent.

For budget options, Silver Spruce Motel runs $70–110/night with clean, basic rooms on the west end of town. Ami’s Acres Campground on the Colorado River has tent sites for $30–40/night and is the best budget summer option.

Getting There and Around Glenwood Springs

Glenwood Springs is 160 miles from Denver on I-70 West — about 2.5 hours in good conditions. The drive through Glenwood Canyon (the last 12 miles before town) is one of the most scenic stretches of Interstate in the country. The Eisenhower Tunnel and Vail Pass can cause delays on weekends, but traffic generally thins west of Vail.

Amtrak’s California Zephyr stops in Glenwood Springs daily — one of the few Colorado mountain towns with genuine train service. The ride from Denver’s Union Station takes about 5.5 hours and passes through some of the most spectacular scenery accessible by rail in the US. One-way tickets run $40–80 if booked ahead.

The town itself is walkable for most purposes — Grand Avenue, the hot springs, hotels, and restaurants all cluster within a 10-block area. You only need a car for Hanging Lake (trailhead is 10 miles east in the canyon, accessed by shuttle bus from the visitor center), the Glenwood Canyon bike path access points, and day trips to Aspen (40 miles). RFTA buses connect Glenwood Springs to Aspen and Carbondale frequently.

Best Time to Visit Glenwood Springs

Summer (June–September) is peak season. Hot springs are open year-round, but Hanging Lake permits, the canyon bike path, and outdoor dining are all summer highlights. Temperatures reach 85–90°F, and the hot springs are less appealing in the heat of midday — go early morning or evening.

Fall (September–October) is gorgeous. The canyon turns gold with cottonwoods and aspens, crowds thin, and temperatures cool to 60–75°F — perfect for hiking and soaking. Late September is prime. Hanging Lake permits are easier to get.

Winter (December–February) is when the hot springs experience peaks. Soaking in 104°F water while snow accumulates on your hair and steam swirls around you is the definitive Glenwood experience. Sunlight Resort, 12 miles south in Carbondale, offers affordable local skiing. Temperatures run 20–40°F.

Spring (March–May) brings snowmelt, high river flows, and fewer crowds. The Colorado River through the canyon runs big and muddy, which limits some kayaking but creates impressive whitewater viewing. Hanging Lake trail can be icy into late April.